Big Fat Shanghai

For Mami Athena, in honor of her wonderful Pork Binagoongan.

---

I took up classes in Food Writing for my masters in hopes that my one-time experience in writing about a restaurant in Manila Times during my OJT would get me through this subject. But less than halfway through the semester, I am beginning to think that food writing is not just writing about food.

It all started last week. Before the class was adjourned, one of my classmates suggested that we should have a little Christmas Party the next meeting. The moderator immediately bought her suggestion and since we are in a Food Writing Class, she said that we should at least bring a dish that we personally prepared.

Everyone agreed and their decision posed a huge problem for me.

---

You see, I never really know how to cook. I wasn't even allowed to light a stove because I used to be a pyromaniac in the past. I guess my past deeds (which almost burned our house one time) never got out of my karma. So I told them I don't know how to cook. The moderator suggested that I could at least fry an egg, which I confessed to them that I cannot do. So we ended the class last meeting without me anything to offer them for this afternoon's "little tea party."

At first, I thought that I could ask my mom's friend who is good at making Graham Mango Cake to assist me in how to make one. But I later realized that I don't have the necessary cooking materials and experience to do such a grand thing. Besides, I am not even sure if I could count her with preparing the cake or not.

So I junked the idea before I could actually make preparations for baking.

As days passed, I thought about making a salad. But since nobody knows how to make one and assist me in making my own, there might be some unforseen problems that could happen in food preparation. Then, two days ago, after having some deep thoughts about the food that I would bring, I realized that it would be best to bring a dish that is very close to me. I thought of something that I could not cook, yet I know in my heart how the maid prepares it.

So I decided to make a Lumpiang Shanghai to bring it to the party.

---

The preparation is very simple.

One need at least a half a kilo of ground pork; 1 onion, 1 garlic and a carrot sliced and finely minced; a half teaspoonful of salt, half-sachet of Ajinomoto and black pepper powder dashed into the mixture. Stir gently all the ingredients in a bowl until the mixture becomes uniform enough not to distinguish one ingredient from another. Finally add the california raisins and two eggs into the bowl and mix well. This will improve the texture and taste of the filling.

Once the ingredients have been mixed thoroughly, spread the lumpia wrapper in a plate. Take a spoonful of the mixture, dab it into the plate until it forms a long lump halfway towards the center of the wrapper. Fold the wrapper and roll it in a manner that the final product would look like a 6-incher fat Cuban cigar. Repeat the process depending on the serving.

The frying must be done under low heat so that the filling would cook the same way as the wrapper does. This light flame technique would avoid the terrible fatality where the lumpia ends up being crispy yet the filling has a repulsive smell and raw-like aftertaste.

---

I took the first taste test when the first lumpia was taken out of the casserole. I must say that its taste and experience was what I had envisioned in mind. It's smell roused my fondest memories of eating in Jollibee and it made me smile everytime I take out a piece of lumpia from the bubbling pool of boiling oil. You see, the very reason why I chose the dish is because I wanted to capture the fat lumpiang shanghai our maid cooks for dinner. I'm so tired and bored with the slim small ones that is so often served during parties that I have hoped to make my own version that is filling and full of lively ingredients. In the end, I succeeded in making one in just my first try.

When my lumpia was served during the little tea party, my classmates could not help but comment on how wonderful my dish was. I'm not sure if they believed that I made it myself but nevertheless, I am flattered by their compliments. At least, my gruelling crayola moments while dicing the onions paid off.

---

Carla Pacis, our moderator in Food Writing always tells us that the secret in writing excellent food essay lies on the experiences and memories of the food writer. He must capture its essences and write it in a way that the reader's senses would be roused by his words and feelings. As I prepared the mixture, I had a little bonding moment with our helper, who was there every step of the way to guide me.

I told her how much I appreciated the dishes she cooked for us and her experiences and memories serve as my example whenever we have class discussion in the subject.

It would take a long time before I get to be a good cook or a very good food writer like Doreen Fernandez. But my first time experience with Lumpiang Shanghai might hopefully, wishfully awaken the inner chef in me.